Beaches on the west and north coasts
Away from the south coast, the beaches are generally quieter and less developed but no less beautiful, with a wilder and more unspoiled feel. The north coast is less sheltered from the strong summer winds (meltemi) which sometimes occur, but conditions are often calm and it is definitely worth making the effort to visit some of these. There are no watersports, and most beaches have a single taverna rather than a plethora of beach bars, but the sunbeds tend to be placed at more civilised intervals, and the sense of space is welcome.
A road opposite bus stop 24 leads up to Agia Eleni beach. Due to its relative accessibility, the beach is still fairly busy, with many sunbeds and the Tropical Beach Bar. A gaggle of people wielding cameras often develops here in the evenings, since Agia Eleni is reputed to have the best sunsets on the island.
At the turning to Agia Eleni a dirt track leads further up the coast. The next beach is Krifi Ammos, or ‘hidden beach’. This is one of my favourite beaches on the island, its clear waters excellent for swimming. The beach is accessed by a steep footpath going past a taverna.
A little further up is Mandraki (also known as Xerxes, since wreckage from the fleet of the Persian emperor was washed ashore here during its attempt to conquer Greece). It has a wide stretch of sand and is the favourite of many locals. Elias, the next beach along, is also highly rated. My pick of this section of beaches, however, is Agistra, just a little further on, which is smaller and has a quiet, remote feel. (These beaches are also worth visiting for the surrounding forest.)
Travelling eastwards along the north coast (there are amazing views all along this stretch of road) you reach the Asselinos beaches. Both Little Asselinos and Big Asselinos can also be accessed by taking the road north opposite bus stop 18, from which they are clearly signed. Further east along the coast is Kechria, with Little Kechria just beyond it. (NB the main Kechria beach is often called and signposted Ligharies, and the little beach called Kechria). Along with Krifi Ammos, the Kechria beaches are my favourite on the north coast.